tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-17766642034400469042024-03-14T17:36:37.243+11:00Building and fixing things with RexWhat I'm up to in my spare time. Contains a combination of the different projects I'm working on.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.comBlogger158125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-45905840233132691042017-03-22T15:14:00.000+11:002017-03-22T15:14:06.079+11:00New SiteI have decided to upgrade this site and give it a proper name. Now all new posts can be found at <a href="http://buildandfix.info/">http://buildandfix.info</a>. This site will still exist and some of the links on the new page still link back here for now. But all new posts will be on the new page.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-55789053222993761682017-01-31T07:04:00.002+11:002017-01-31T07:04:16.795+11:00Success!! We got the Southern Cross Engine working<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5DrIL5IY0ds/WI-YyKnhi4I/AAAAAAAADt0/e3twNIEQwAoKqkdOr45Eh7NU0phXbQAzgCPcB/s1600/20170126_122321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5DrIL5IY0ds/WI-YyKnhi4I/AAAAAAAADt0/e3twNIEQwAoKqkdOr45Eh7NU0phXbQAzgCPcB/s320/20170126_122321.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
We got it started! Cough Cough. Blows a little smoke though. Thankfully it clears up somewhat once it's a bit warmer.<br />
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This is it running after it clears up a little. You can still see a little haze out of the exhaust but it no longer looks like we set off a smoke bomb.<br />
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You may be wondering what is different to get this engine started to last time? Well it was suggested that we try driving it with a drill and a socket that will go over the crankshaft. That would work and I do have a drill that would be suitable. However I don't have any sockets big enough.<br />
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So rather than going out and buying something we figured it would be best to try with what's on hand first. So we came up with this:<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oUXEgi7dUxc/WI-YyCdWK5I/AAAAAAAADt0/YTct1vXmth87YmBqtgESWxNGlFd732gXgCPcB/s1600/20170129_112907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oUXEgi7dUxc/WI-YyCdWK5I/AAAAAAAADt0/YTct1vXmth87YmBqtgESWxNGlFd732gXgCPcB/s320/20170129_112907.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
It's a piece of rope that I had sitting around here wrapped around a fair few times. With this and someone to flip the decompression once it gets some speed up it's just about always first pull to start.<br />
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Another thing I like about this is that I feel it's much safer. As long as it doesn't get caught around your leg there isn't enough mass in the rope to hurt badly if it were to get thrown at you. Also if it were to get caught and not release then it is light enough that it shouldn't unbalance the engine. Making it a much less stressful process to stop if something goes wrong like that.<br />
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I have also cut down this rope so it is only about as long as it needs to be. This makes it a lot harder to catch yourself on it or tangle up in any way.<br />
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Here is a little Youtube clip of it running:<br />
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Now we just need to set up something to run from it. Now about that portable sawmill...<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-73624060953611628342017-01-24T12:56:00.000+11:002017-01-24T12:56:06.071+11:00Southern Cross Stationary Engine has us beat.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H1Hu6CLyltA/WIXIozMe89I/AAAAAAAADrk/uTdISvyPm-IC0epvkSmJZDo4AdFssa6QACPcB/s1600/20170123_184341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H1Hu6CLyltA/WIXIozMe89I/AAAAAAAADrk/uTdISvyPm-IC0epvkSmJZDo4AdFssa6QACPcB/s320/20170123_184341.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
My Brother bought a small stationary engine the other day and has it at my house for now. It is a Southern Cross 3 1/2 HP Diesel model EF-D. I found it on a buy/swap/sell group on Facebook and mentioned it to him. A couple of days later and here it is.<br />
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The bloke he bought it from gave us a little instruction on starting it. However we were unable to get a demonstration as it didn't have a base at the time. So with a couple of bolts holding it on to an old pallet I had at home the process began.<br />
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First we tried to bleed the pump. This worked really well, after I opened the correct bleeder valve. At this point diesel started to run out quite fast. Then bleed the high pressure line to the injector. Crack the nut and pump until fuel comes out without any bubbles. This done we poured oil down the hole we were told to pour it down then time to start it up.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H-krzMP9oMs/WIXI2YS-GCI/AAAAAAAADrk/9yQfk2_Xr6klNW_EXlYBIwz9M27oHD8rQCPcB/s1600/20170123_184349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H-krzMP9oMs/WIXI2YS-GCI/AAAAAAAADrk/9yQfk2_Xr6klNW_EXlYBIwz9M27oHD8rQCPcB/s320/20170123_184349.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
My Brother with the key. No fancy electronic start here.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9YYDidu7UGY/WIXJBekbpGI/AAAAAAAADrw/z8pGToIa0e0pADyzaY4TCZyZXEraCqirgCPcB/s1600/20170123_190526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9YYDidu7UGY/WIXJBekbpGI/AAAAAAAADrw/z8pGToIa0e0pADyzaY4TCZyZXEraCqirgCPcB/s320/20170123_190526.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
Maybe electronic start isn't such a bad idea. He managed to clonk himself on the knee then the chin. Drawing a little blood.<br />
On the safety of starting these engines. The nut that the crank handle engages with has a slope on it so that if the engine starts then it will push the handle out. It will not throw it if you don't let go but it will push it away from the engine. Also some of the similar engines were actually able to run backwards if you didn't get it started right. These ones have had a slight modification to the head to stop them from doing this.<br />
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After a little break I decided to have a crank. I managed to get some puffs of smoke out of the exhaust but it never even coughed.<br />
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Being that we were both worn out we decided it was time to pack up and try another day so here it is sitting in the naughty corner.<br />
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After this I ended up finding a <a href="http://www.pistonpumps.com.au/documents/SouthernCross3halfhpdieselMarkEF-DInstructionManual.pdf">manual online</a> and discovered that we had the governor set wrong for starting. Hopefully this is what has been causing it to not start and we can start it next time.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-53205207838430420182017-01-19T21:36:00.001+11:002017-01-19T21:36:39.291+11:00Time to start testing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mTmJKaDmZOM/WICKVBz76hI/AAAAAAAADqU/5RqcQIx71zgjuIXaLmcnPAA8RdBm60p6QCPcB/s1600/20170119_204235.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mTmJKaDmZOM/WICKVBz76hI/AAAAAAAADqU/5RqcQIx71zgjuIXaLmcnPAA8RdBm60p6QCPcB/s320/20170119_204235.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Tonight was a very significant step forward in the development of the new control system for the Mill. I have now reached a point where I trust the setup enough that I can start finalising the control parameters and start tuning the motors and so on.<br />
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I wrote a little G-Code program with some help from the Machinekit documentation so I can run some tests that will help me with this tuning. The main thing I am worried about at the moment is loosing steps because of incorrect speeds or acceleration. To test this I am going to set up a program that will cycle for about 10min or so just making movements in one axis to see if it drops any steps. If I note it's position when it starts and compare that to the position it returns to then I will know if it has lost any steps.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0_afG1yf7_s/WICKeI65nSI/AAAAAAAADqU/hNexQ005ar855DolRl57ZcORkMg3PFhcwCPcB/s1600/20170119_204225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0_afG1yf7_s/WICKeI65nSI/AAAAAAAADqU/hNexQ005ar855DolRl57ZcORkMg3PFhcwCPcB/s320/20170119_204225.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
A very basic program so far. It only runs once but all it will be is a replication of this program many times to get the cycles needed for confidence in the setup.<br />
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This is a video of running this program. It is using a feedrate of 100mm/min which the motors seem to like. So this should be a good starting point that I can improve on.<br />
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I'm thinking about different ways I can share the programs between different computers. I am probably going to set up a Github or similar account that I can store the machine definitions in. Then if the SD card this is running from dies I still have the configurations and they can easily be transferred to other machines or shared.<br />
For the G-Code programs I am probably going to set up a <a href="https://www.resilio.com/individuals/">Resilio Sync</a> installation on the controller. This way if I want to edit the files on a different, faster computer I can. Then once I'm finished editing the files it will be quite quick to move across to the controller.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-75439536485468324982017-01-16T19:21:00.000+11:002017-01-16T19:21:06.433+11:00Milling MadnessThe end is in sight. I got some more work done on the Mill upgrade over the weekend and am now at a point where I am happy to start making chips.<br />
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Last time I tried to get some work done on the mill I was <a href="http://rexoregan.blogspot.com/2016/12/trying-to-get-fan.html">defeated trying to get a fan set up</a>. This time I found a fan in my junk pile that works.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IlqBFkjwmxI/WHvUch4UejI/AAAAAAAADpw/uJNQ_HYvbqwJCVxma4D1PcXioDl8Bz_0ACPcB/s1600/20170115_160756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IlqBFkjwmxI/WHvUch4UejI/AAAAAAAADpw/uJNQ_HYvbqwJCVxma4D1PcXioDl8Bz_0ACPcB/s320/20170115_160756.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This is the old power supply that I installed in the control box <a href="http://rexoregan.blogspot.com/2015/10/ive-got-power.html">here</a>. Then I replaced it <a href="http://rexoregan.blogspot.com/2015/11/the-mill-moves-again.html">here</a>. Although it has been sitting for over a year the fan still works from it. It is labelled as a brushless fan but I figured that the designers wouldn't have gone to the trouble to drive the fan with some kind of waveform and it could be driven with plain DC.<br />
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It turns out my guess was correct. So I now have a fan to go in the case. It was even exactly the right size for the mounting holes.<br />
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Here it is set up in the black box testing phase. I had it rigged up on the desk without plugging in the machine just to get this stuff sorted. Now that I have the fan and everything sorted it is time to move it off the desk onto it's home on the CNC bench.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q55bo1NdvSg/WHvUDy-yO-I/AAAAAAAADpw/ruv1CcwFLfoeorueVOPIkorcz_z7GwOtgCPcB/s1600/20170115_171856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q55bo1NdvSg/WHvUDy-yO-I/AAAAAAAADpw/ruv1CcwFLfoeorueVOPIkorcz_z7GwOtgCPcB/s320/20170115_171856.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Here you can even see the penguin power. I am planning on using just the mouse and the little numpad pendant as the interface for this as there won't be much call to type stuff in and this will keep the fairly crowded bench clearer. For now however while I am setting up the parameters for the stepper motors as a proper keyboard makes this much easier.<br />
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Now I just need to work out the toolchain to turn a CAD drawing into code to run on this machine. Getting it onto the machine should be fairly easy as it runs a quite up to date version of Linux so I can just set up an NFS share or similar for loading up programs.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-92196698758404351292017-01-13T07:04:00.002+11:002017-01-13T07:04:53.271+11:00Getting some wiring done on the Land RoverYesterday I got some more work done on the Land Rover. I wanted to do something a little cleaner than stripping the axle further so I decided to get some work done on the wiring.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wVOpAWHF_MY/WHfO8gzzSTI/AAAAAAAADpM/yTkXAqDeblAfDIQxOc-S-3kwjg6fhY3AwCPcB/s1600/20170112_175227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wVOpAWHF_MY/WHfO8gzzSTI/AAAAAAAADpM/yTkXAqDeblAfDIQxOc-S-3kwjg6fhY3AwCPcB/s320/20170112_175227.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Originally the only fuses in these cars are the 2 you can see in the left of this picture. I had added the terminal block in the middle to make life easier for connecting stuff up. But it still wasn't fused.<br />
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So I removed the terminal block and added these fuse boxes I got from <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/">AliExpress</a>. They were quite cheap and you can see and feel it in the build. But they are solid enough that I have no doubts they will suffice.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8l_FVidqyss/WHfODppbVXI/AAAAAAAADo8/jn2Mk93aGSUh-OkhVvddPtpKPJkWVUYIACPcB/s1600/20170112_193932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8l_FVidqyss/WHfODppbVXI/AAAAAAAADo8/jn2Mk93aGSUh-OkhVvddPtpKPJkWVUYIACPcB/s320/20170112_193932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
When I ordered them I thought that not having a bus bar connecting all of the fuses would be an advantage. However as I started to wire in the stuff I already have that needs to be fused I realised that really it does all need to be connected to positive supply. So I just daisy chained together the top pins so they are all live and the devices will connect on the bottom.<br />
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This is one of the reasons I want to add my own fuse panel. This has been added by a previous owner and seems to have been set up for running spotlights and such from. However I do not need the switches there and the fuses can be moved elsewhere. This will clear up a heap of space so I can build a gauge cluster there.<br />
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Anyone who has been around me for a little while knows I like to be able to see what the car is doing. Particularly considering that work I am putting into this I want to be able to monitor it's behavior so that if something starts to go wrong I can start taking it easy or something to help it along. At this stage I am looking to add a voltmeter, tacho, oil pressure & probably manifold vacuum gauges. I may also add an oil temp gauge, but that can happen later; Particularly if I start working this a bit harder.<br />
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It does look pretty bad in here. But if you pull it out all the way with the speedo cable removed then it is all quite clear. Though with the fuses wired up now hopefully I will be able to leave this as it is for quite some time.<br />
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This is where I got up to. I still need to drill out the rivets that hold the plate on for the old fuse panel. But it was starting to get late and the mosquitoes had come out so it was time to call it a night.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-48310527066385682632017-01-11T19:57:00.002+11:002017-01-11T19:57:53.090+11:00Time to get pumpedA short while ago I got a new air compressor to go with my existing system. It's not really what I am looking for because it is still a fairly basic direct drive compressor. But the price was right and it will still improve my current setup.<br />
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This is what I have set up now. I do need to do some tidying up and cut down some of the flexible hoses to only the minimal length needed. The 2 compressors on the right of the photo are the ones I have hooked up. The one on the left does not work and needs some wiring done to fix that. So it is only acting as an extra reciever. Now with the addition of the second working compressor I have 80L of storage.<br />
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Not quite ideal yet. The outlet from the original compressor is connected with the rigid copper line in the background. The new one is connected through the ball valve to the manifold at the top of the tank. Coming out the other side is the outlet from the reciever. I may change this arrangement so that there is less leverage on the top of the reciever. I will probably put the manifold on the wall or something so it isn't rigidly connected to the receiver.<br />
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This is a big improvement here. The regulator is undersized unfortunately but not too badly that it is unusable. The black hose on the left comes from the manifold on the top of the receiver. The coloured hose on the right goes up along the ground to the verandah where I do most of my work. It isn't buried though so I can quite easily move it to where I am working.<br />
You can just see the oiler to the right of the regulator. I am trying this mounted here because I've not really been happy with it hanging out the bottom of the tool I am using.<br />
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I am using Nitto quick disconnect fittings to connect everything together. Unfortunately they do introduce some restriction to flow. But with the amount of air I am using is not really that much. Once I get this space cleaned up a bit and I'm happy with it I will probably plumb it together with plain tapered fittings so as to minimize restrictions.<br />
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I've got some more work I've been doing on the CNC that I need to finish before I can put up here.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-86145379160943383362017-01-08T14:50:00.001+11:002017-01-08T14:50:55.376+11:00Well that's one down.I've been making some progress on disassembling the hubs for the Land Rover. I even now have one of them completely apart and even the oil and muck cleaned off it.<br />
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There are nearly all of the parts. The Free Wheeling Hub is underneath the rag in the foreground and the bearings are sitting on the other side of the parts washer. I want to soak them in petrol or some other fairly strong solvent that will not have much water in it.<br />
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To make life easier for myself I decided to get a new toy. On the right is what I have been using and on the right is a new parts washer from Supercheap Auto. I was looking at the prices for a replacement circulation pump when I saw Supercheap have a sale on these parts washers which meant that they were only a few dollars more than the pumps I was looking at. So for the extra few dollars what I got was essentially the bucket (the one I have been using is still serviceable), the spout and the electrics. All of this is stuff I could have gotten, but not for that price and not that quickly. Also the bucket has a shelf in it so I don't have to have all of my parts floating in the degreaser. Also it is made from metal rather than plastic which means it will handle more knocks than the plastic one will.<br />
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I discovered a heap of bolts that I'd left in the plastic bucket. I would've found them, but probably not before they got all mixed up.<br />
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Now I need to get a clean plastic crate and put all of these parts in it with a splash of kerosene or something to form an oily film so that the parts can't rust. Then I can start pulling down the other one.<br />
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In the meantime however, it's getting warmer and I've remembered that I have A/C so I'm going to do some inside projects instead now.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-80923043320035260342017-01-04T19:37:00.001+11:002017-01-04T19:37:45.632+11:00More pieces againNow that I have a workbench that is usable I wanted to start getting the hub(s) torn down for the Land Rover to see if there are any more surprises waiting for me.<br />
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Even though I had cleaned it with the pressure washer before there was still enough oily grime to make my hands too dirty to use my phone.<br />
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I must admit, this did surprise me a little. This is the joint that allows the drive to flex as the wheels turn. In newer cars and ever slightly newer Land Rovers these are CV joints not a simple universal joint like this. However these do have the advantage of being simple, easy to replace and not much to wear out. This one is in quite good condition and has no play in it at all. So that's one part I don't need to replace.<br />
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However this may be a problem. There appears to be a crusted up bit on the tapered section to the left of the land that the bearing runs on. I'll have to double check the other hub as I disassemble it to see if this needs to be a smooth surface. If it doesn't that that finish will be fine as there is nothing loose or flaky on it. But if there is a bearing or seal on it, then the tapered part will need replacing.<br />
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Just like christmas again. I sprayed down the driveshaft with a fair bit of WD-40, then wrapped it in pallet wrap. These parts will be stored in an un-heated spot and it could be a little while for everything to arrive that I will need to get this put back together. So I'd rather do this and have to cut it off once I'm ready for them then have to clean up rusty parts that were fine.<br />
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It took me a few seconds to work out how the seal come off from here. Turns out it is just a close fit around the flange.<br />
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Oooh, Shiny. This is in quite good condition, with no pitting. The flange is a little dirty but there are no problems here.<br />
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So this gets the same spray and wrap treatment.<br />
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That's all I've got so far. I will be pulling apart and cleaning the parts of the freewheeling hubs next. As I'm disassembling everything I am making sure it is clean enough for it to be put back into service without any extra work. So it is taking a little while to get it done. But you can be sure it will get done.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-71453422017147053042017-01-03T15:16:00.002+11:002017-01-03T15:16:53.365+11:00Now I have a tableSome of you may have seen on facebook that I have been building a workbench from mostly stuff that would otherwise get thrown away.<br />
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It started out as 3.6m long pallets that work needed to get rid of. So I took a couple to disassemble into more useful parts. I've used the planking from the top and bottom and made sure that I took out all of the nails. I then glued the faces of each of these together until I had a big enough block of timber. I then cut this in half so the bench would be a sensible size for my workspace.<br />
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The ends are not quite even because there were some chunks out of the ends of some planks. I put all of these at one end so I could cut off the worst of it all at once.<br />
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It looks a lot worse in this picture than in person. But I planed down the biggest misalignments and glue runs on what would become the top.<br />
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Then it was time to get ready for the glue up. To make sure that I didn't glue the bench to the sawhorses I put some pallet wrap around them.<br />
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Doing a dry fit to make sure there wouldn't be any gaps one everything was pulled up.<br />
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You can just see some light through here. This needed to get fixed.<br />
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To fix it I found the high spot and just took a little material off with the plane until it was pretty even on the straightedge.<br />
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Here we are, gluing in process. I put some pallet wrap around the joint as well to stop drips landing on the ground and on my straps.<br />
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Unfortunately I did have a little split open up during gluing. I think this was because I tightened the straps differently which meant that the one at this end would have been slightly slacker. I'm not worried about this as I can either chop out a section and inset a new piece, or more easily I can make an appropriate wedge and glue that in there.<br />
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Because I didn't plane down or level off the bottom side of the table at all I needed to cut rebates through the high points for the cross bars of the frame I am using. To mark them I used a chisel.<br />
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And this is the hammer I have been using with the chisel. Yes it is just a random hunk of wood. And yes there are characteristics it has that I would like to be different. But it works surprisingly well, is not heavy enough to be tiring and I don't need to worry about breaking or wearing it out as I can very easily find another just as good.<br />
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I cut down along the marked lines with a saw to about the depth of the lowest plank. Then I chopped out the middle with the chisel. It probably would have been easier if I'd made the trench a bit wider so it was the same width as the chisel. That would have made it much easier to get a nice clean even trench. As it was, it wasn't too bad.<br />
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And there you have it. There is still some work to be done in making it nice and flat and even. But at this point I need a workbench and this is now flat enough for me to start using it.<br />
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I even have it covered in stuff already.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-24836642021978142742016-12-31T11:51:00.000+11:002016-12-31T11:51:39.722+11:00Serious disassembly has now startedYesterday I continued on with the work I discovered I need to do on the Land Rover the <a href="http://rexoregan.blogspot.com/2016/12/a-frustrating-discovery.html">other day</a>. Namely to remove the front axle so I can get easily to all sides of the hub assemblies and the diff because they seem to have managed to fill with water and grit.<br />
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This jack has been doing quite a bit of work since I bought this land rover. It is just the one that came with my ute for replacing the occasional flat. Whereas for a while now it has been lifting up the land rover almost regularly to pretty close to the limits of the jack.<br />
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Hmmm. There seems to be a problem here. Unfortunately the wheels had to come off to be able to fit under the bullbar.<br />
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That will fit a bit better.<br />
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Now I found another problem. This whole assembly is way yonder too heavy for me to pick up and put the wheels back on. So I just dragged it until it would be in a spot where I can pull it apart without it getting in the way.<br />
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This process has made me want to remove everything and do a complete restoration rather than just a quick get back on the road. This rod (Not sure what it's called. Ties the hubs together so they turn at the same time.) has ball joints at each end. This is what they look like:<br />
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There is no more rubber boots at either end and both of them are stiff and don't really move very well at all. These will both need to be replaced and I will need to check the other ball joints as well. Also when I detached the prop shaft from the diff I discovered that the bolts were surprisingly loose.<br />
These are issues that would get fixed with normal maintenance on any car but from the previous use I was told about. There would have been between practically none and actually none.<br />
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One grotty hub with the axle still in. I figured that I would clean everything up a bit so it's a little nicer while I'm pulling this all apart.<br />
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It's a bit hard to tell in the pictures, but just a few minutes with the pressure washer and the bulk of the grot and oil have been washed off. As it was starting to get pretty warm and I had been hit with a fair bit of spray from cleaning this up and needed a shower. I decided to call it a day. So a heavy coat of WD-40 and this is ready for me to finish pulling apart and cleaning properly.<br />
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I'm tossing up while I have everything apart getting some proper chassis paint and cleaning everything with a wire wheel and painting it properly.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-34194677532888236172016-12-29T21:01:00.000+11:002016-12-29T21:01:25.092+11:00I've been working on the railroadIn a stark contrast to yesterday when I spent the day inside in the air conditioning, I decided to go down to the Zig Zag Railway today and sweat a bit. Or a lot. More like a lot.<br />
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We decided to replace a couple more sleepers along middle road that have become damaged. This contraption is a sleeper puller that makes this job much easier. All you need to do is pull some levers and it will pull out the old sleeper. Then line up the new one and push it home with the power of hydraulics.<br />
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The way this machine has been built is quite simple. A petrol fueled hydraulic power pack that is just connected on the the valving. This meant that during construction an off the shelf part could be used. Eliminating the complicated and fiddly design and set up of petrol motor, hydraulic pump & reservoirs and cooling for each.<br />
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Unfortunately there seems to be a problem with the fuel pump. Once we had pretty much finished the first sleeper we started having fuel starvation issues. With the motor stumbling then picking itself back up again. Eventually it died and we finished off that sleeper by hand. We were able to get it started again by getting the fuel filter filled. However that only lased a few minutes before we had to fill it again. Eventually we did get both sleepers changed and are now in place ready for baseplates & spikes.<br />
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Heading back down for lunch. He seems to be pretty keen for it!<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-38400852246637185862016-12-29T07:28:00.001+11:002016-12-29T07:28:47.425+11:00Trying to get a fanYesterday to try and keep out of the heat I stayed inside and tried to get some work done on the CNC Mill. I have tested all of the steppers and everything looks good there. However the Pololu stepper drivers I have only have a fairly small heatsink on them. I am not exceeding the rating that is recommended with the supplied heatsink, but I am at the limit of what can be done there. So with that in mind, I would like a bit more headroom.<br />
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When LMC built this control box they quite kindly left a fan shaped cutout for me. Unfortunately the fan that was originally in there ran from the 110V mains this was set up for. So I plan to use one of the PC fans that I have sitting around here instead.<br />
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This fan is close enough to a good fit in the cutout that it will work fine. However, upon testing I found that it would not spin. The cogging effect was increased though. Then I looked at the small print. It is a brushless DC motor. I do not know much about these, but it seems they need a varying DC waveform rather than pure DC.<br />
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So where in here can I get a varying DC waveform from? One of the PWM outputs from the BeBoPr Beaglebone cape of course. The plan was to get machinekit running and then set up a user controlled variable to adjust the PWM duty cycle until I found the sweet spot. Then set it u so that whenever the machine is turned on in Machinekit then the fan would start.<br />
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That was a good plan. Except for the fact that because I haven't done anything with this for months and months. I couldn't get machinekit to run at all. Then I tried a new, clean image to make sure that there wasn't a setting causing the problem. However then I ran into a problem with my HDMI to VGA adapter. Apparently the Beaglebone Black doesn't supply enough current over the HDMI port to run a passive adapter. So I either have to hook this up to the TV in the loungeroom, buy an active adapter or I can mod the passive adapter. I actually have all the parts I need to be able to regulate the 12V down to 5V needed and wire up the regulator. So I might end up doing that.<br />
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So keep an eye out for either a fan installation, or modding a passive HDMI to VGA adapter.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
Rex<br />
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Actually I just remembered that I have a fan in one of my servers that is run from a molex connector for the disk drives. That means it runs from 5 or 12V DC and can be made to work here. Seeing as I am not using the servers anymore I might just re-purpose it for this.<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-17927193010652260972016-12-26T16:58:00.002+11:002016-12-26T16:58:53.580+11:00A frustrating discovery.Today I was hoping to start using my shiny new tools that I was lucky enough to recieve at Christmas. One of the front wheels on the land rover has had a leak on the back of it, apparently from a failed swivel ball seal. The procedure from replacing one of these can be somewhat of an ordeal at the best of times so I figured I'd have a crack when I had the week off work. However I only got this far:<br />
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I thought that I could pull the axle out, then I could separate the hub from the axle and replace the seal without actually removing the hub or the brake hose. Unfortunately as I broke the seal that should have been holding in a heap of EP90 oil there wasn't any oil come out. In fact there was a little water come out. All of a sudden this job went from something that would be a pain but doable in a few days, replace a seal with a generic one from one of the shops in town and then all done. To, dismantle the entire hub assembly, degrease, clean & check for rust on every component. Get new seals & bearings where needed, clean, paint and reassemble. Then I will have to do the other side to make sure that it has not had the same issue.<br />
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My unfortunate discovery, with a little old brake fluid to start the cleaning process.<br />
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Actually come to think of it, I might pull off the front axle, leave the body on jack stands and strip it all down. Just to be sure that the diff is good as well and it hasn't had it's oil contaminated.<br />
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Anyway, watch this space. Lots to happen soon on this now.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-24068542507348318112016-11-28T15:21:00.000+11:002016-11-28T15:21:19.732+11:00Garage sale = DangerI don't think I should be allowed near garage sales unsupervised. This weekend was a fine example. I went just for a look, and possibly to get some woodworking hand tools. But this is what I came home with<br />
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A nice big pedastool drill press that came with 2 vices and a slightly dry drizabone. Both of which are things I've been thinking about getting, but don't need, critically anyway. However both will be getting a lot of use in the coming years I dare say and I will be happy to have bought them then.<br />
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Not quite it's final resting spot, but for now it makes a very good hat stand.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-63526992982277991392016-11-24T08:59:00.000+11:002016-11-24T08:59:33.817+11:00Which do you think was faster?While up at my mate's farm where my <a href="http://rexoregan.blogspot.com/2016/06/yes-i-did-buy-another-car.html">Pulsar</a> is. We decided to go for a little drive. He in his AWD Subaru and me in my FWD beat up Pulsar.<br />
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And who won? Me of course. Despite the nissan having this happen to it<br />
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Though it may have been like that before we started. We can't remember now. Thinking about it though, that may have had something to do with me not being able to turn particularly well. Especially the bottom corner, a big 180 bend. I could steer nicely through the first half, but then it would just go straight for the next couple of meters no matter what I did.<br />
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And we did our part for the environment. There are now a few less blackberry bushes standing in that paddock. They may still be there, but they are a lot flatter now.<br />
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With a big storm coming over the hill we decided to get a bit artsy with the car.<br />
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Credit has to go to my Mate for this one. I'm pretty happy with how it ended up so I might claim it. After all it was taken on my phone.<br />
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If we remember, next time we will get the Go-Pro out. It was sitting in the car we drove up there, but we completely forgot to get it out once we started the cars.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-35668622022916978182016-11-21T19:01:00.001+11:002016-11-21T19:01:27.941+11:00A ute will keep you in demandPart of owning a ute is being the person who can move the big or heavy or dirty things around without an issue. So when my parents needed some help to get some concrete slabs home I had myself an excuse for a nice drive.<br />
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Here is the first one in place and ready to go. Having a quick breather before moving the second one. Each of these weighs about 80kg so I'm sure you're wondering how we moved them? Well thankfully we didn't have to just muscle them. In a pinch 2 of me could move one, however it would be quite hard work and slow going; with plenty of potential for hurting yourself.<br />
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This picture might help. You can just see what we used to make it so easy to move these.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Twsyt4Fvvzs/WDIEy4dJP8I/AAAAAAAADT4/n6DZcNexkXUYtOkRK_Ry9kjGOIVUhhIMgCPcB/s1600/20161118_191645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Twsyt4Fvvzs/WDIEy4dJP8I/AAAAAAAADT4/n6DZcNexkXUYtOkRK_Ry9kjGOIVUhhIMgCPcB/s320/20161118_191645.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
Thankfully Mum & Dad have an engine hoist which easily lifts loads like these. We had a couple of proper lifting slings so with those under the slab and someone to steady the load it was very easy to roll the hoist over to where they needed to go. Once they were nearly there we could just slide the slabs sideways by their width and the lifting was done.<br />
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And why did we need to put in some big heavy slabs? In this box are a heap of big batteries for running the house. Batteries like these need a very solid base that ideally is slightly elevated so anything on the ground needs to climb a bit before getting to them. Hopefully these slabs will hold them for years to come.<br />
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So thank you Mum & Dad for giving me a reason for a nice drive out there and a chance to ogle at their new power system going together.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-4533098451484649712016-11-17T07:42:00.000+11:002016-11-17T07:42:24.496+11:00Parts on orderI'm back at a point where I can start buying more parts to get the Land Rover back on the road.<br />
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You may have noticed that there are some lights missing from it. Namely the indicators, park & brake lights.</div>
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If you hadn't, this picture shows where 2 of them go nicely.</div>
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I have ordered a set of replacements from <a href="http://www.roverparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/1416/10872">Rover Parts</a> which will look like this:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8pKNbqHWaZ4/WCzEWqeSIiI/AAAAAAAADSY/yrRSWj1_dCwVYxm_5LY1RYV7GHiQRoEgQCPcB/s1600/DA1077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8pKNbqHWaZ4/WCzEWqeSIiI/AAAAAAAADSY/yrRSWj1_dCwVYxm_5LY1RYV7GHiQRoEgQCPcB/s320/DA1077.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from http://www.roverparts.com.au/</td></tr>
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They are not quite exactly identical to the original parts. However they have just come off a later model. They will still fit in the same space and get wired up the same.</div>
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I have tested some of the wiring that is still in the back. The wire for one of the indicators is still good and works, but I'll need a helper to test the brake lights. Also I'm hoping a little more load from more lights will mean that the indicator flasher can has enough current going through it to cause the lights to actually flash.</div>
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Another post coming regarding the install.</div>
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Cheers,</div>
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Rex</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-56025652226768904782016-11-14T19:38:00.001+11:002016-11-14T19:38:37.240+11:00Amazing how much difference having a clear space to work makesToday I took a day of leave as recovery from the weekend I just spent training on the James Craig. I figured I would still be pretty tired and not having to get up too early would probably be a good thing.<br />
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With half a day to fill and it raining a bit too much to get the brakes finished on the Land Rover I decided to get the desk inside where I keep my radios & computer tidied up.<br />
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This is more or less what it looked like before I started to clean up. Actually probably worse as there has been a fair bit of time for junk to accumulate since that photo was taken.<br />
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I also turned the desk around. This means that I can access the back side where the 12V power supply is. And it also lets me plug & unplug anything into mains power depending on what my current project is.<br />
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This is what I have now. If I put my laptop away then I have a huge desk that can be used for whatever project I have at the time. This extra bench space will be very useful with the couple of electronics projects I have in the back of my mind coming up.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-79278613084019612232016-11-07T12:58:00.000+11:002016-11-07T12:58:05.461+11:00Back door now installedI have had a door for my Land Rover since I bought it, however it was not installed, nor did it have enough bolts to just put it on. So on the weekend I fixed that.<br />
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In this photo you can just see a hand holding the door on. Before you could use the top hinge to locate it and hold it in place. This didn't really do much other then prove the door fitted. But it was a start.<br />
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The nuts I found were too small for the holes that have been drilled in the frame of the door. So I had to make up a backing plate to stop them from pulling through. This came from a piece of scrap angle I had sitting around. A few minutes with the grinder and the drill and it was ready to go.<br />
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It is still a mess inside. But that isn't as obvious now with the door shut. I'm not sure if it's supposed to, but the geometry of the hinges means that it half wants to open itself. Not a bad thing, but interesting.<br />
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Unfortunately for now this is my latch. I don't quite have a complete lock mechanism for the door so while I sort out how to lock it properly this will do.<br />
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This was a nice, fairly quick project that has definately helped make the car more weatherproof. Hopefully soon I will have the brakes sorted and then I can move onto the next part. Possibly the lights which are missing.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-10789173066183829992016-11-05T08:23:00.000+11:002016-11-05T08:23:46.039+11:00It's not worth putting off an easy fixI've had some trouble in the past with getting a white buildup around the negative terminal of the battery in my rodeo ute. I have always been able to get it going again, but it has always been some fiddling around when it gets bad.<br />
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When this happened the second time I bought a new battery terminal and put it in the car. Ready for me to install it. However because the problem didn't come back I didn't end up getting it installed.<br />
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Yesterday I had the same problem. I park on a slope at work and there is enough electricity getting through the terminal to hill start it, which I did. However when I got home there wasn't even enough getting through to run the central locking. So I had to fix it.<br />
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This is the old terminal. Just an extension of the crimp that gets bolted around the battery post. It looks pretty rubbish for a factory part, but I guess it's worked for the last 10 years.<br />
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This is the new part. I just cut the strap off the crimp and left the main body of the crimp alone so all of the little wires would stay in one bundle. According to the packet this terminal is lead which is the same material as the battery post so there should be no compatibility problems there. What will be interesting is if the problem goes away, or if it moves to where the wires meet the new terminal.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-43568250279400886472016-10-31T15:14:00.000+11:002016-11-01T10:05:26.795+11:00What a bunch of stick in the mud's<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Yep, It's Stuck.<br />
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In the process of helping Mum & Dad move out to a new property we decided to take my ute and go for a tour, right up the back. Apparently to ground up the is pretty boggy and we managed to get my ute stuck in there. The ground was solid enough until after you drove over it. Once you did that and disturbed the crust then all the loose soft stuff below would just let you sink.<br />
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Then when we came back the next day with another ute it got stuck as well.<br />
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That lighter coloured mud was oozing out from under the wheel while we were standing there talking about what to do next.<br />
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This may have had something to do with why we got stuck.<br />
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We ended up getting a set of recovery tracks. (<a href="https://maxtrax.com.au/maxtrax-mkii/">Not this brand but similar</a>) and all of a sudden we were out. These things worked so much better than we thought. Even my 2wd ute with an open diff was fine. Until I reversed a little close to a tree for comfort and had to stop again.<br />
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The first one goes free.<br />
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We put some old carpet in front of the cars so that they had something to help stop them sinking through again. It seemed to help, particularly in the first bit getting up speed again.<br />
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We were stuck pretty well. There were a few diff shaped divots in the ground as well.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-23953011583632875992016-10-05T17:00:00.000+11:002016-10-05T17:00:05.284+11:00Long weekend, Means more time on project carsSo with Monday being a public holiday for me I decided to get some more work done on the land rover. I didn't get a whole lot done but I made some good progress on fixing what was stopping the car from moving properly. First I removed the screws that hold on one of the brake drums.<br />
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Some jobs just can't be done without the proper tools. In this case an impact screw driver. Greatfully borrowed from dad. Turns out this was the easiest drum to do. Later in the evening I tried to get the fronts loose. No luck at all. Until I brought out the blue wrench. With a little bit of heat I managed to get the screws free. I didn't get the front drums off as they were still pretty stiff and I didn't want to bang too much as it was starting to get late.<br />
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What I did manage to do however was completely loose my brake pedal. No, It was still on the floor. It just went all the way there without any resistance. The brakes were always a little spongy since I bought it so they were on the to do list. But this made it a bit more urgent.<br />
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Could this be the cause? The inner part of this reservoir seems to be for the clutch as it was still working and had a bit of fluid still there. However the outside did not have any left at all.<br />
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The fix? No. But the first step. After filling the reservoir up I could hear the master squeezing something around. For a little I was worried that the master may be dead and started thinking about ways to test that. Then I realized. I was overthinking this.<br />
If the reservoir was empty then the master would have been sucking air. If it was sucking air then it would have been pushing air out. Then there would be air in the brake lines. Therefore the brakes probably need to be bled.<br />
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This is what ended up coming out before the bubbles stopped. This was on one wheel. As soon as I nipped the bleeder back up the brake pedal was firmer than it ever has been. I only ended up bleeding the one wheel as that has restored the brakes to where I am happy with them for now. Currently all 4 wheels are off and it is on stands so I am not going to be trying to stop it any time soon. Also I may be pulling some stuff apart on the brakes depending on what is needed which means that I will need to bleed it again. No point doing something twice.<br />
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Now I need to go up the front and see if I can find the problem and fix it so the car will roll freely in high range.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-61192608397068016422016-10-04T17:00:00.000+11:002016-10-04T17:00:28.511+11:00We were sailingOn Sunday we were lucky enough to have some great weather and took our boats out. We took out both of the dinghy we have, both my parent's Vagabond and my Fireball. It was a good day, despite both of the boats needing some repairs that we have been putting off since we last used them. The fireball needed a pintle for the rudder put back on after <a href="http://rexoregan.blogspot.com/2016/05/well-it-does-everything-boat-should.html">this trip</a>. The vagabond needed the line that hauls up the centerboard to be fixed. That line had been getting sun burned for some time and on the last trip it finally failed, thankfully both were easy fixes.<br />
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Before bolting the pintle back on I put some silicone onto the back of it to ensure that water can't get into the buoyancy chamber at the back. I put way too much on but it is a lot easier to clean up a little silicone before it sets then to repair a rotted out hull.<br />
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The vagabond all hooked up and ready to go. To put the new line in the centerboard we had to lift the boat up, drop the centerboard out then run the new line through the hole in it and then put it all back in. Not very long to do thankfully.<br />
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This is the lake now. I have never seen it this full before. WE have been very lucky and gotten a lot of rain recently. The ground now has so much water in it that almost as soon as we get significant rain now it starts running off and into the rivers and dams.<br />
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For a comparison this is what it looked like before. Where the above photo was taken is further up the bank to the right. Quite a long way up.<br />
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Unfortunately I didn't get any photos while we were sailing, but it was a very good day for it and we got some good speed up. Nicole did very well as crew, despite me putting the leeward rail into the water quite a long way a few times.<br />
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Cheers,<br />
RexAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1776664203440046904.post-24619821678700721392016-10-03T11:01:00.000+11:002016-10-03T11:01:23.799+11:00No More LeaksOn Saturday I finished putting the new gasket that was needed onto the waterpump on my Land Rover. I talked about the beginning of the process <a href="http://rexoregan.blogspot.com/2016/09/fixing-land-rover.html">here</a>.<br />
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The problem I had was that I needed some kind of gasket as a spacer to make sure that the impeller doesn't contact the block as the back of the housing. I decided to have a go at making a gasket out of cork from scratch for the spacer.</div>
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Armed with a memory of instructions I found on the internet on how to do this I got started. Getting the outside shaped was amazingly easy. With my ball peen hammer I tapped around the edge of the housing which cut the cork on the corner of the housing.</div>
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The rest was a bit more difficult. The bigger open spaces allowed me to use the same hammer technique, however when it got in close to the impeller the hammer couldn't reach anymore so I had to resort to using scissors and checking against the housing regularly.</div>
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To get the bolt holes we got 2 hammers, set the ball peen of one over the hole and tapped. This cut the cork or at least made a mark, enough so that I could cut the rest of the hole out with scissors.</div>
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You can just see the pump in place. I probably should have painted the fan shroud while I had it out, but I didn't really have the abrasives to clean it up enough for good painting.</div>
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In the middle you can see a temperature gauge reading about 80 Degrees Celsius. This was after driving around a bit and seeing how the brakes go and so on. Because the fan is always going it probably takes a little longer to warm up than I am used to with a more modern car, but it still gets there no worries so no concerns there.</div>
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Now sitting in the back of the yard so I could get the fireball dinghy out. It will move under it's own power, but only in low range. in high range there seems to be something holding it back. I know the brakes need some work so that is my current theory, one of the wheels might not be letting go properly. After that issue is fixed it should be driving well, just needs a full fluid change then I can get on to making sure it will pass rego.</div>
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Cheers,</div>
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Rex</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00658251209546653051noreply@blogger.com0